Birgu – Città Vittoriosa: A 2020 Vision

Exploring the history and traditions of the small Maltese community of Birgu

Growing up in the north of England, marching bands have been a big part of my life.  The St. George’s Day parades in which I took part as a Scout, the Boys’ Brigade at my church, the local carnival processions:  all of these featured brass bands.  But nothing could have prepared me for the widespread Maltese tradition of the Band Club.

I’ve been told that every village and city in Malta has at least one band club, with many having two and some even more.  Birgu has two: the H.R.H. Prince of Wales Own Band, and Is-Soċjetà Mużikali San Lorenz (which is pictured playing here).

The history of Maltese Band Clubs goes back to the 16th century, when religious processions, like the ones I have written about before, were led by small groups of musicians.  These early bands were mostly made up of drums and flutes, but the 19th century influence of the British military led to the inclusion of a whole range of wind and brass instruments.  Initally, members of British military bands would take part in the religious processions, but later more formalised Philharmonic Societies or Band Clubs were established in different localities to provide the music for the festa and to lead the processions. 

These new każin tal-banda were often created within pre-existing local social clubs, and maintained a social and political function as well as a musical one.  Those who wanted to play during the festa but couldn’t afford to buy their own instruments could be subsidised through donations to the club from more well off members of the local community, giving the clubs an egalitarian role. Politically, the names of the clubs reflected whether their members were pro-Italian or pro-British.  The latter were usually named after a member of the British royal family or aristocracy, as were the two clubs in Birgu.  Political activity was most significant during the Sette Giugno uprising, part of Malta’s slow journey to independence, which was coordinated within a network of band clubs.

Today the band club building is an important feature of Maltese community life.  As well as maintaining an archive of the band’s memorabilia and souvenirs of past achievements, it usually houses snooker tables and a café or bar where people can meet and exchange local gossip.  The band itself has a central role in local festa celebrations, not only playing for processions and giving concerts but in some places also participating in the preparation of street decorations or the coordination of firework displays.  They also serve as music schools, offering free tuition and usually maintaining a youth section. It’s been suggested that many Maltese who go on to become successful professional musicians owe their success at least in part to their involvement in their local band clubs.

The older of the two Band Clubs in Birgu is the Soċjetà Mużikali San Lawrenz, which was established in 1883. Since 1922 it has been housed in the Palazzo Huesca, a large 19thcentury house in the main square that was recently restored.  

This band was originally named L’Unione, as it was formed by musicians from two musical societies that had disbanded when many of its members had been forced to emigrate to look for work. It was given permission to adopt the name H.R.H. Duke of Edinburgh’s Own in 1891 but dropped the title in 1978, adopting its current name to reflect its close association with the Church and festa of St. Lawrence. As well as performing during the festa, the band is integral to the Birgu Good Friday procession, and stages a number of concerts throughout the year.

The other band in Birgu is the H.R.H. Prince of Wales Own Band, which is associated with the Dominican presence in the city.  It was founded in 1891 as the Filarmonica La Vittoriosa, but changed its name in 1895 to the Duke of York’s Own Band, before taking its current name in 1901.  It is housed in Palazz id-Dumnikani near the main archway into the city, just a few doors up from the Dominican priory.  Like the priory, the premises were extensively damaged by bombing during World War Two.

As well as playing at the St. Dominic festa in Birgu, the band is invited to perform at several other Maltese festas, and gives regular concerts throughout the year. 

In the past intense rivalry developed between band clubs in the same village or city, as each would attempt to outdo the other in the celebration of their own patron saint.  Birgu was no different, and this rivalry still bubbles away under the surface today, a topic to which I will return in August during the festas of St. Lawrence and St. Dominic.